Back to the Shan

The British left behind an education system, health care, fire brigade and lots of small airports around Myanmar: They liked to pop over to one of the states, check how things are going and be back at base in time for gin and tonics. Some of these things have been kept up like the education system and thankfully for us, many of the airports which makes flying around the country easy. It's true that once at the airport the lack of flight information doesn't inspire confidence but the goofy sticker system and sharply eyed floor walkers does seem effective in ensuring that you board the right aircraft and they always leave bang on time.

We've landed at Heho a old military base, and for the next hour we're driving up to the old hill fort in Kalow. It's very similar to Pwin Ou Lwin in feel, climate and pine forest but its population is more varied with a number of Nepalese Gurkhas and Indians (descendants of the many who built the road and rail infrastructure) having settled here, the hilltops have far fewer Pagodas they aren't splattered with gold leaf but just forest and woodland.

It's also the heart of the Golden Triangle, not that you'd know it, this is not a threatening part of the world despite the long running civil war, and there is  again great hope that the new government will finally find the agreement for a ceasefire and unite the country as the much missed National Leader intended before his assassination in 1947. The Shan were largely left to govern themselves during British time and most of fighting since has been to allow them to do so again; they want a federal system (like the US) where many of the decisions are made locally. 

We skip past the regular market (long since tired of these places but I keep a cursory eye out to see if they have a fish big enough to eat the bananas we threw into the muddy waters around Shampoo island) and drive straight into a cattle market. It's all about the size of your hump when it comes to pulling ploughs and carts and this fella looks worth every cent of his $3000 asking price: 

We're out of the heat of Mandalay and climbing  into the mountains, an old viaduct is still in use by the daily train which just reinforces the feeling that we've been here before looks exactly like the one we took from Pwin Oo Lwin. On hearing the train approach, instead of urgently vacating the track we just choose which side will be best for a photograph. 

Further into the hills we come to Myin Ma Hti Cave. In this hilltop is a maze of 10,000 Buddhas hidden in a cave, the oldest being placed here in 12th Century, and the collection is growing all the time. 

I'm not thrilled to find the cave guarded by a giant spider given my love of the 8 legged beasts but I'm assured this one was slain by the prince long ago to free the Princesses within the cave. The density of Buddha in here is crazy and makes the entrance claustrophobic but they thin out as you go deeper into the labyrinth, but other neighbouring caves also contain buddha.

The Pine Haven Resort feels very Home Counties with its wood panelled bar, open fires and green lawns. We're well under budget with just a week to go so it's a step from up the previous hotels as we bid to close out Myanmar with some colonial style and a Brandy by the fire.

Nyaung Shwe is the entrance to Inle lake so'll we'll need to continue by speed boat, made from very long planks of teak, the engine spins a prop which sits just below the surface to avoid the many reeds but which displays it's revs with a plume of spray and a steady cough of diesel exhaust.

Fisherman pose as we clear the channels and break out onto the lake itself, they use bamboo cages to drop over a fish and then with a cane, scare it into the voluminous sack of netting that lines the cage which ensures it is trapped when the cage is raised. 

This requires the fish to be still while the bell shaped bamboo sinks around it so whether it's traditional or not it all looks very unlikely! The current fisherman must agree as they now busily lay out lengths of nylon netting but they do still steer their boats with one leg, leaving their hands free to tend to the net. It's impressive display of balance:

They also farm the weed, literally dragging it into a boat on the verge of capsize:

The people of Inle lake are famous for silk weaving and also pioneered lotus stem weaving, the silk is from China as local worms don't produce such quality but the Lotus plant is plentiful growing around the floating farmland but these fibres produce the most sought after and very prized longhi given the plants association with Buddha.

Weaving is complicated but the master craftsman are the boat builders. Heavy stretches of teak are shaped and sanded by calloused hand into a craft that'll so balanced and sit so high as to barely touch the water. All the planks are joined using dowel, hammer and hand drill, it's not a kit, each has its awkward join to shape and puzzle over but the finished boat is a thing of crafted beauty and frankly looks a bargain at $500. (Private commissions only as the teak is expensive.)

Once the wood is shaped into place they are  waterproofed with a mix of lacquer and sawdust. Lacquer has many applications, usually tableware or furniture it's quite an art to take woven bamboo and sometimes horse hair for more delicate designs, coat it in a fine clay or bone ash to give it rigidity before the black lacquer is applied, which on drying looks like shiny plastic. A set of these bowls would be a beautiful thing to own but I've resisted negotiations to buy on the grounds that I doubt it's dishwasher proof.

Next day is market day and the whole on Inle lake descends for the weekly trade, some selling ants, edible leather, selections of fish in itself unremarkable until you realise they are still alive, and are occasionally dipped in the water bucket to keep them from drying out, or dying. 

This is so any unsold fish can be roped to the stilts  under the house until the next market in 5days time:

We awaken next morning to jungle chirps and (John) secada starts up, a reply never more than 7 seconds away but in the evening on the full moon a huge frog chorus fills the air, they all stop suddenly but frequently which you can time with your own movements as if conducting them.

The Phaug Daw Oo monastery in the centre is famous for its five small Buddha, which used to tour the lake until all went overboard in a boating issue, but only four were found. The fifth made its own way back to the monastery and is highly revered, so much so that all the buddhas now have so much gold leaf applied they are unrecognisable as statues, now looking more like gold stones. (Note the addition of flashing LEDs amplifying the grandeur of the centrepiece... Why do that?)

Inle is a population tied to the lake, they live on it, bath in it, brush their teeth in it. Its central to their lives providing food and transport but in recent years it's being drying out or rather, not being sufficiently topped up during the rainy season as climate change bites and this means navigating the long boat out to up the channels to outlying villages is a challenge. Ingeniously they have narrowed part of the stream to give more depth of water in a narrow channel up which a boat can pass. 

These channels lead us to several ruined stupa, Alaung Sitthou dates back to the 16th century but has long since fallen into disrepair:

Banyan trees have taken root and the stupa show the burrows where robbers have investigated them for any jewels or valuables that are sometimes included by the stupa donor. 

UNESCO wanted to protect this area but they require to be left as it is, preserved for nostalgia but the locals want to restore and replace the ruins so have refused the offer. It's a stark difference between the two cultures where one clings to the past, the other just wants to move forward. Whilst some have been more sympathetically restored by the government archeological department, it's not long before the disco lights appear:

I'm suffering from bird(man) flu and have run out of paracetamol so despite the strong advise from lonely planet to the contrary ("Myanmar healthcare is dismal... and should be used only out of desperation... Buying medication over the counter is not recommended") I'm forced to find some local supplies, the packaging makes it worth it:

Even cures "Malaise", where have you been all my life?!

 

Bagan; land of many stupas

We left Mandalay, by road, for an 11 hour journey to Bagan; the place I had been most looking forward to visiting in Myanmar.

Most of the journey was by car, and we drove through now familiar looking towns and villages, with roadside stalls. Lots of petrol stations being constructed; neighbours having seen the success of the first that were built. 

More interesting to me was when we passed miles of high razor wire fencing, complete with look out towers, search lights, armed police and at least three large police stations. Roadblocks sat along side the road ready for use. It turns out they are all protecting a Chinese copper mine. When we asked what was going on we found out that all the villages who used to live and farm in the area were forcibly moved on, given far less than the value of their land for compensation, the mine employs only Chinese immigrants and 90% of the copper goes back to China. Understandable the locals have been demonstrating, so a curfew is in place at night; hence the roadblocks. Nice to have your own police force looking after its own civilians...

We are asked about the rumour that the Chinese are building a nuclear power station in the UK, we say it's true. This is seen as hilarious as Chinese is the by word for poor quality here; but that may be at least partially due to the tactic of selling items here that are too dangerous or cheaply made to be sold in their home market... 

We broke up the drive with a visit to some limestone carved caves and shrines. Everything you saw had been carved out of the limestone rock itself, it was quite amazing

Many of the shrines and Buddha images had been damaged, apparently by the resident monkeys but I wasn't so sure.

If it is the monkeys the problem is not being helped by the fact they are fed by the stall holders and tourists who visit. You can even buy a package of food for them. The sales tactics have changed here, we are followed silently by a woman with a bag of souvenirs as we explore the site, but she never once speaks to us... On the way back to the road they are braver, asking which country you are from so they know which language to do their sales pitch in. Highlights were a two year old that said "hello what country are you from" to everyone who passed, and a slightly older boy who, when I answered England, said "well a very good morning to you" in something approaching a Cockney accent!

We did the final two hours of our journey by boat, witnessing the first angry Myanmar-an we've seen as our boat driver had a shouting match with the man on the pier directing people to the right boats before getting abroad muttering and slamming doors like a teenager. 

We cruised slowly up the famous Irrawaddy river to Bagan, stopping at an island with a magnificent temple. The most interesting bit was the walk too it through forest, even in this desert like, sandy environment, with fantastic trees and lots of acacia.

The flood planes were huge and you could see the river rose a lot in rainy season. 

Sun set while we were still on the river

The final part of the journey was a beautiful dusk light drive past 50-60 stupas into Bagan. All the residents were relocated from the old town to "new Bagan" so the old area and all its temples and stupas could be preserved. Apparently they don't mind now due to the extra money they get from all the tourists! The buildings are new and there is a purpose built market selling everything and anything you need. Without fridges they shopping is done each morning for that day and the spices looked and smelt delicious

We stuck our head in a Lacquer wear workshop near our hotel; hands up I had no idea Lacquer came from the sap of a Lacquer tree... The process is long, complex and with many stages; starting with a bamboo and horse hair weaved starting structure with gradual building of layers until the final stages of painting one colour at a time.

There was a show home at the back of the workshop, goodness knows how much it would all cost!

If I am honest the reason I had wanted to come to Bagan was not to do with caves, rivers or lacquer wear. It was the iconic image of thousands of warm brick stupas reaching out to the horizon. "Arguable better than Ang kor Watt" and it really didn't disappoint.

We got wonderful high views over the city on the elevated walls of the first temple we visited and it really took your breath away.

There are over 3000 temples, pagodas, monasteries as stupas here and the whole place feels and looks magical. 

The style changes depending on age, starting with ones you can walk around inside with an inner corridor. These Stupas are from the original design of a fort, square with two layers and plenty of gaps between to hide in. These ones are built differently to elsewhere in Myanmar, with a Mongolian influence meaning lots of archways and domed ceilings in the early (11th century) examples. They forgot how to build them like that eventually so the older ones look more familiar.

Ones that are solid with a Buddha outside

And ones with beautiful wall paintings inside

They would have originally been covered in plaster work and gold leaf, but I prefer the warm brick exteriors especially at sun set

The history of the region is a blend of myth and legend with a few facts thrown in. The government are not keen on scientifically dating things after their oldest Buddha turned out to be 500 years younger than they thought...!

We hired a local guide to show us round for a day and a half, and it was definitely worth it. So much information on the architecture and history than you could hope to get on your own. The area held its own against the Mongolian push through the region, quite a feat. And was part of a successful Shan kingdom that stretched well into Bangladesh and China. The final Shan King only stepped down in the middle of last century. The guide explained with a laugh that they were so successful at war because they took the fight to the enemies territory and didn't let the enemy come to them; like the Americans apparently!

It's not an exaggeration when I say it's the most amazing site I've seen, stupas stretching out for miles. 

We hired a horse cart to see a few more instead of mopeds 

We also visited one of the local villages on the edge of the "archeological zone" where innovative local villagers ran informal tours of their homes and farms stopping off conveniently at houses that made crafts 

One of the old ladies made cheroot cigars. A rather interesting mix of tobacco and chipped palm tree root rolled in palm leaves... As our guide had been chain smoking smaller versions all day (which may explain his unusually deep, gravelly, almost French sounding voice) we bought him one; only for him to ask us later for a recommendation to help him get work again as he had been off all last year being treated for cancer...

He came out with lots of funny one liners, like; "Staying in Myanmar like preparing to be a monk, there is nothing to do in the evening".

Whilst relaxing amid all this beauty there were a couple of other things to note. After my repeated digestive issues I have taken a leaf out of my mums book for visiting hot countries with lots of curry, a daily gin and tonic, made better by the quinine in the gin as we were in a malarial zone again.

Secondly; the amazing peanuts. I have three foods I can't resist; chocolate, cheese and peanuts. The peanuts here are grown in fields all around and are unbelievably fresh and tasty, and served as a side to, cooked into and on top of every meal; as well as with every drink you order. Undoing all the silver linings of my stomach problems...!

Deet the feet, Mandalay

Rice, noodle, rice, noodle, rice noodles, rice, noodle, rice.

Chicken, pork, chicken, pork, chicken, pork, chicken, pork, chicken

Chilli sauce, sticky sauce, chilli sauce, sticky sauce, chilli sauce, sticky sauce, chilli sauce

There are a few combinations to be had but it starts to lack variety especially when breakfast is the same choice. We've missed the curries of the southern parts of the country and beef has all but disappeared from the menu which turned more Chinese in the Shan state, now in Mandalay we're hoping for some new things to try.  A steak restaurant just four blocks from our hotel is irresistible. 

It's dark early here and sunset is fast, in fifteen minutes the streets are the switched into complete darkness, barely illuminated mopeds stream past like angry wasps. We're walking with a torch but quickly run out of pavement, three blocks to go and a black police car crawls past us, we're not doing anything wrong but I'm never sure if there isn't an obscure law along the lines of jaywalking that we may have unknowingly crossed and it's a little uncomfortable for a few long seconds. I've since checked and we were perfectly OK to be there so I think they just happened to be passing by. 

Next night we stop off a block nearer the hotel (this part of Mandalay near the perfectly 2km square old fort is laid out like a New York grid) at a almost beach front bar but without the beach - these are the first such establishments we've found, little more than a covered bar with music (and beer) and some nods to the west on the menu. It's basic and easygoing but the clientele is far older than it should be, in fact most of the visitors we've seen in Myanmar are coach loads of French and American pensioners, occasionally some Germans all much older than us. A coach load of anyone ruins a restaurant especially when you're looking for something a bit authentic: There are too many readers of Lonely Planet these days!

Mandalay is a likeable place, it's the first place we've found a nightlife, the roof of our hotel is a bar / restaurant and it's a decent escape from the town but after a while, despite the ice cold drinks I have developed a cough and actually it smells like car exhausts up here. Mandalay lies on a fault line has frequent earthquakes, we fortunately missed the last one by a week but it means the buildings tend to stop at 4 storeys. Locals claim the fog is blowing in from China but we're some way from the border and it's actually quite strong, that mist that envelopes the city each evening and ruins the sunset photos has to be more local.

Sunsets are a big deal for whichever guide we hire, it's becoming a running joke. 5.30 we'll be perched somewhere beautiful for sunset then rushed back to the hotel at 5.45 when its all over. They are losing the attraction but it's that time of day in Mandalay and this time we're by the longest wooden bridge in Myanmar, the silhouette at least offers a change in the photos composition:

Mandalay is not pretty but it is friendly and has enough background business to suggest it is actually the cultural centre of the country, rather than the high rises that are springing up in Yangon. 

It has an energy to it, a little local pride and many traditional skills from slipper making to intricate Buddha marble carving, clay pot making, silver smithing and most importantly gold leaf production...  

This is hard graft, the guys beat the slices of 24carat gold to the thinest wafer possible so that the country can apply it to Buddha images, 6 hours a day with the hammers. I cannot stress how critical applying gold leaf to Bhudda image is.

Bhudda image is everywhere across Myanmar and affixing gold leaf to the image is a key part of the worship. The leaf, having being hammered to into the thinest skin you can imagine, is delicately applied by all to the Buddha of their choosing, many of the popular ones are starting to look 'warty' from so many choosing the same square inch to apply their leaf.

The temples and monastery's in Mandalay are a bit better looked after than those we've seen so far, the floor tiles actually look like they all came from the same decade instead of being leftovers from multiple 1980s kitchen refurbs. Anyone can update a site through donation and say how they would like to update it, and I think this lack of an owner for what can be done and what should be vetoed accounts for a lot of the questionable "upgrades". Buddha with neon flashing lights is a favourite but maybe someone should just be able to say, um hang on a minute... Does this look a bit shit? I do like that anyone can keep improving the site, that the pagoda is not sacred or untouchable by the masses but in my opinion not every update is an improvement.

On the day I added gilded gold leaf to Buddha's backside a family was also celebrating the inauguration of their youngest to the Monastery he's heavily donned in make up and in an outfit, the photos of which will haunt his adult life and he is embarking on a big adventure as a novice monk, he will return home once a week (in his white robes) before joining full time at the age of 7, like boarding school but with a weeks leave just once a year. 

So why be a monk? The monks have no possessions, are humble and must accept any donation that might be afforded - usually rice, curry or small denominations of cash, all the food is then shared within the monastery at feeding time - 10am. Mealtime is very serious, more generous donors can attend to handout the monks food in person and these donors come from all over the world, when we are at the monastery Nuns from Korea hand out 1000 "jacks" to each monk (slightly less than $1). A monks life looks a difficult one but it is privileged: They each have an excellent state funded education, free accommodation, food and water, and are respected in society. They learn English and go on to have degrees in Buddhism at the age of 21. In fact state schooling across Myanmar is focussed on literacy and most the younger population speak English very well, they'll come talk to you just to practise. Its a little unnerving as (sadly) you suspect you're being buttered up for a sale but it is just a friendliness to which the West has forgotten how to offer or accept.

Donations to Buddha are on a scale you simply cannot imagine from a population which by all measures lives in extreme poverty, it's astonishing. They are the recorded as the most generous people on earth. Half a million of them live across this country safeguarding the purest form of Buddhism. Forget the pot bellied laughing Chinese Buddha that we are used to nothing here, the Buddha we see is immaculate and regal, maybe slightly feminine but is always heavily donated to. 

The Buddha image (always 3 dimensional) sits in a pagoda, the site of which is at the wish of the donator, where he may have made a decision, been lucky, found a ruby or proposed to his wife: the site itself is not religious, just important to the donor and hence you find pagoda scattered across this land. This is why Myanmar viewed from space must look like a stretch of green covered in gold sprinkles. 

Buddha isn't a god you pray to, it's where you go to contemplate your problems, seek advice. Buddha isn't an all seeing Creator that judges and Nibbana isn't a place. There is no concept of a paradise filled with virgins or a seat in the heavenly ever after there are just five simple rules to live your life by (sadly the last one is not to take alcohol, because you'd be more likely to break one of the previous four) but stick to these and look to do good deeds to your fellow humans and you could traverse through the reincarnations to be the fifth and final Buddha.

On the drive here we passed many Teak plantations, a teak tree takes around 150 years to reach its best, it's most valuable. The government has been frantically replanting the trees to catch up with the rate at which they have been disappearing. They are extremely rare in the wild but this shows some long term planning, a century long investment before they are in peak condition to harvest. Copying the harvesting plan from colonial times trees are densely planted and then thinned out every 30 years or so thus allowing the remaining trees more space to grow into whilst providing ongoing cash to keep the project rolling. It all looks rather promising and rather contrary to the messages we get about teak.

 

There are two huge ageing teak constructions, the Bagaya monastery and the old fort and the old palace (from where King met the British who arrived in 1824) each are both very impressive, exhibiting beautiful awnings and carvings. 

There isn't a free press here but the front pages are full of the Premier league game tonight, Liverpool v Manchester United. I do love how football crosses all cultures and people, how you can "talk" about a game with a total stranger with no common language just through expression, player names and grunts (though I think they prefer to bet - illegally - on football rather than follow a specific team.) In a beer garden later and not a garden at all, we watch the match. It's a man palace, there must be 150 here, Alexa is the only girl, plastic garden furniture tables and chairs spread across the open sided "bar", attended by very young staff bring beer from tap to table which are also look to be furnished with a bottle of local whiskey much of which is sent flying when Rooney scores. (We never found a place where the girls go to spend an evening.)

Sunset by the worlds longest (1.2 km, 200 yr old) U Bein Teak wooden bridge , it's dry season do the timbers reveal their lower lengths and they aren't in good condition. None the less, many crowd the bridge as catching the sunset here is popular. We're in a warmer area of the country and that means mosquitos though they aren't so prevalent at this time of year it still means the ritual of suntan lotion, then a good squirt of deet is needed before venturing out, my tip is never forget to deet the feet, mine are coated 96% of the carcinogen and nothing so nothing has dreamt of landing on me.

We're heading further West tomorrow down the Ayeyarwady river towards India where the influences are different and the landscape turns more Jungle book.