I woke gradually under warm blankets in a cool room to the sound of Gibbons calling. I lay there sleepily for about 15 minutes thinking that this was possibly the best way to wake up I have yet experienced. And then it happened; the tell tale squirm from my stomach that all is definitely not well and that I have approximately 1 minute to get to the nearest bathroom... It had picked the perfect day; we had a 7 hour train journey ahead of us, and that was if the train ran on time.
The food is arguably lovely in Myanmar and last night I had gone for the traditional dinner set up of a small dish of meat curry served with almost endless side dishes of rice, salads, vegetables and dip. Then peanuts, peas, seeds and tea leaves for pudding; an acquired taste, I am guessing diabetes isn't too much of a problem here... Sadly the food is often prepared in unhygienic kitchens, the crops are routinely sprayed with chemicals that are not legal in Europe and the industrial pollution in the rivers poison the fish. I am not sure what particular thing had caused my current issues but the list of foods I am avoiding is now so long choosing something to eat is a challenge. I have also developed a very literal gut reaction, if I can read the description for an item on the menu without my stomach turning I am onto a good thing. Thankfully we still carry South American strength tablets for this sort of thing, which fix the immediate symptoms, no doubt causing other problems longer term. Still, what better way to lose the weight you put on over Christmas? I recommend the Myanmar diet!
So back to the all day train journey...
The station was a mix of tourists going for the sightseeing trip, locals and piles of vegetables and animals going as freight. The train arrived in two parts, confusingly, and we found our seat in the "upper class", standard class was wooden benches and I am glad we didn't go for that once the train got going.
For train geeks the attraction is that it goes over a viaduct originally built by the British as the route to China
I enjoyed it as I like train journeys (despite suffering at the hands of First Great Western) and think it's a great way to see a country, especially one with roads as crazy as they are here where my attention is drawn from the view to what we are about to hit worryingly often. The towns, villages and countryside we travelled through were fascinating, as was watching the loading, unloading and goings on at all the stations we passed through.
The train set off with lots of clunks, bangs and creaks. It's narrower gauge than the UK and because of that and the aging track it rolls quite spectacularly side to side. You also hit spots where the lumpiness in the track hits the resonant frequency of the suspension and you bunny hop along for a while, the padded upper class seats were a good call!
We pass through well tended fields of farmland, growing a whole range of crops; rice, beans, wheat, cabbages, cauliflower, tomatoes and a range of flowers for display. The average farm is 6-7 acres and is worked mostly manually with your family, labourers at busy times and water buffalo to pull the ploughs. Tractors are not popular due to the complex terracing and irrigation channel system.
The villages are small and simple, mostly straw houses. They are fairly quiet with most people out tending the farms. Small children are left to watch the railway, the train being the equivalent of CBeebies.
At the stations women join the train to sell snacks and also full meals dished up from deep bowls on their heads. Often leaving after it sets off, top speed is around 10 miles an hour so that's not too much of an issue.
We arrive in Hsipaw, our stop, and get off to avoid arriving at the Chinese border which isn't far away. Also getting off here are 200 rather tired and emotional looking goats who have somehow all fitted into one freight truck...
We head to our guest house as do seemingly all the other westerners on the train. The place has a real traveller vibe to it, lots of open areas to chat, a library and bar. All I wanted was a lie down and a proper toilet to be honest... We both try some pasta later for dinner and don't make it far through the meal.
The following morning the collection of drugs has improved things and we head out with a local guide for a trek around the town. We are in the Shan state, which until 2005 was not open to foreigners; due to both the civil war (still ongoing) and the rather infamous poppies that grow here.
As we head out of town we pass a noodle factory, the noodles being picked off the floor to be hung out to dry before packaging...
The countryside is stunning, and we wander through farmland as the sun burns through the morning mist
There are a lot of local customs and traditions here that sit along side Buddhism, that the Shan people practice. Their shrines for the protection of each village and each important large tree.
Their houses are wood and straw and built in stilts from when livestock used to be kept underneath.
We wander up to a pagoda, with many steps under a walk way with benches alongside.
Our guide explains that since the cinema in town shut the young people come to these benches "for *long pause* intercourse" and the monks chase them away with slingshots...!
It was a beautiful place with a Buddha on top of a globe near the top, because if Buddha could be heard all around the world there would be peace. I am almost convinced.
We then headed back into the farmland to a local village for lunch; noodles! Delicious actually in a light tomato and coriander broth. It's customary to use fried tofu or light crispy pork scratchings as croutons. Works quite well. The steamed pork in tree bark less so if I'm honest. My stomach remains thoughtful for the next two hours before finally giving it the green light.
We then board a boat back to town. Seeing locals in hollowed teak trunk craft, water buffalo lazing after a long mornings work and magnificent kingfishers which were far too fast to photograph!
The river water looks clear, but has lots of floating rubbish and no doubt it's fair share of pollutants. Families live along the banks and use it to fish, wash, do their washing and swim
It cuts through some lush trees and skirts over areas of rapids. It runs fast and it's clear the level would be a few meters higher and quite a sight in rainy season.
Once back in town we stop for our first really good coffee; they grow it near here. Later going out for some rice and stir fry at a local Chinese, a popular place with the locals seemingly.
We head back to Mandalay, it's quite a long drive. Thankfully we stop to visit Hsipaws pagoda, built by the last Shan prince. It seems much better looked after than others we've seen, very sparkly glass work!
A roadside snack stop has us looking into the shop of a lady who makes sticky rice. It's a cottage industry with only her working there and staffing her small shop. The sticky rice is a certain type, hers is a dark colour
She steams it and rolls it into cookie sized pieces to be rolled in spiced and served.
Despite just sticking out noses in we get free samples and she pours us some green tea. Very friendly and hospitable, as we are finding with most people here.
The thing that's struck me about our visit to the more northern parts of Myanmar is the influence of China. They supply seemingly all the electronics in return for Jade, fruit and coal. They are a very powerful neighbour and there are good at influencing and funding the local politicians, the local groups fighting civil wars and the poppy growers (by selling them back their harvest in pill form). The opinions about their big influence seem to be mixed from those who like the investment to those who are starting to resent the bribery, immigration and unfair balance of power. The government was on the verge of signing off a project to let the Chinese build a dam that would generate electricity; with 90% of the output going to China until the election results voted them out last year.
I am also worried about the 4+ months it's taking for the previous government to step down and transfer power to the NLP who won the election back in November. They just passed a law allowing the military to take power back from the president if they deem it prudent, that doesn't seem right...
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